There are no cuts at the back as there are no floating extra weft. On the contrary, the master weaver weaves each motif individually, along with the cloth. In the Kadhuan Brocade, the extra weft does not run across the width. This is often referred to as Cutwork or Katruan ( कतरुआं). If the motifs cover only a small area on the fabric, there are often floating extra weft on the back which are then diligently and carefully clipped off.
In the Fekuan brocade, the extra width runs end-to-end weaving motifs across the width of the fabric. The continuous Brocade, also known as Fekuan ( फेकुआं ), in weaving lingo or the discontinuous Brocade or the Kadhuan ( कढुआं ). This is in contrast with a Jamawar or Tanchoi weave where the design or motifs are created using the primary weft threads itself and are inseparable from the ground.īrocades are essentially of two kinds.
That is to say, if we carefully remove these extra-weft threads from the fabric, the ground will still be intact while the motifs will be removed. In a brocade weave, in addition to the primary weft that holds the warp threads together to weaves the ground, as extra weft is thrown by the weaver that only weaves the motifs and is independent of the ground. As you can imagine, any fabric is woven by the interplay of the warp (the threads that run through its length), and the weft (the threads that run through its width). Technically, any jacquard shuttle weaving that uses a supplementary or extra weft technique can be termed as a Brocade weave. Let us explore what does one mean when he/ she refers to a Brocade Saree, or fabric, in terms of the weaving technique, and its usage in the context of Indian handloom weaving. However, it is often misunderstood by many. Brocade arguably is the most widely used term in the world of weaving.
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